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Autumn School in Alexandria 11/2023
Warm wind, spicy, aromatic air and around 20 Egyptians with signs and curious looks: this is what awaits our tour group as we step out of the spacious arrivals hall at Cairo airport into the fresh air. Our driver gives us a friendly welcome and takes us on a three-hour journey through the outskirts of Cairo and the valley roads of the oases - off we go to Alexandria!
Once we arrive in Egypt's second largest city, we are delighted to discover that all our hotels are located almost directly on the sea. The view of the bay leaves nothing to be desired and the sea breeze carries the smells of fresh fish and spices.
Day 1 - Welcoming and special tour
Welcoming
On our first morning, we set off together to the Faculty of Tourism and Hotels at Alexandria University (AU). The faculty is within walking distance and the route gives us a first impression of Alexandria. We walk through small streets with mostly fragile kerbs, some with palm trees sticking out of them. Compared to Cairo, the honking of cars and the traffic chaos are limited, but may still be too much for some people compared to German conditions. Our group arrives at the building where the first workshop day starts right on time at 9 am. The organizers on site don't seem to have expected such punctuality :) We are the first guests to register, much to the delight of the in-house photographer. We enter the lecture room, which serves as a museum hall for the faculty - easily recognizable by the statues, wall hangings and a side glass display case with busts reminiscent of the pharaohs and ancient Egyptian gods. Prof. Dr. Heba Saad, Head of Islamic Archaeology, welcomes us warmly as all the participants from the American University of Beirut (AUB), Ain Shams University (ASU) and the AU gradually arrive.
Lectures & Breaks
In the first session of the lectures we will learn more about Alexandria during the Greco-Roman and Islamic eras. We learn more about Alexandria's role as a Mediterranean metropolis and the excavation site of Kom El-Dekka as a witness to life in Roman Egypt, Mamluk Alexandria between legend and reality and the city's Islamic heritage. The snacks in the Coffee Break leave nothing to be desired: tiny, salty sandwiches with tuna, pâtés or cheese are served alongside small delicacies from the patisserie: cakes with caramel, chocolate and pistachio. The break provides an opportunity for a first tentative exchange between the participants, most of whom are still unfamiliar faces - but this is soon to change as the day progresses when we are given our long-awaited guided tour of the famous Library of Alexandria.
Bibliotheca Alexandrina: from Sadat's museum to the 360-degree cinema
The route takes us through several museums, reading rooms and exhibitions, such as the Sadat Museum. We learn that the architecture in the main hall is designed to imitate human eye lashes and therefore brings in light from numerous corners.
Exploring cinema and Koshary
After numerous impressions, we end the tour with a live screening of selected historical sights, which are presented to us in the library's own cinema room. The 360-degree images on the semi-circular, elongated screen illustrate the library's modern technology and immerse us in another world. Once outside, we take a few more photos with the other participants in the sunset light - and after the formal part is over, we decide to eat another round of koshary (the Egyptian national dish with rice, noodles and chickpeas) with the AU students.
Day 2 - Museum insights
Collector's museum
At the beginning of the second day, we meet in front of the AU Collector's Museum and are introduced to the craft of conservation.
Special insights
Astonished by the modern furnishings and the valuable glass cabinets, we are enchanted by the manuscripts on our guided tour. Some works are even taken out of the display case for us and leafed through with gloves so that we can marvel at the inside of the books.
Alexandria's cultural heritage
After the tour, we return to the lecture room and listen to facts about Alexandria in the modern and contemporary periods. We learn more about water transportation during the reign of Muhammad Ali, the preservation of the historic university buildings and the industrial heritage. The establishment of foreign communities and the design of a cosmopolitan city as well as the foreign cemetery are also included in the lectures. Finally, possibilities of digitization will be discussed, such as the handling of Alexandria's cultural heritage in the digital era, virtual interfaces of archaeological sites and the construction of a virtual museum within a museum. This varied program was put together by the AU and made possible by the contributions of numerous speakers from the ASU, the AU and the OIB.
Sunset and fish restaurant
We leave the university building again with AU students just in time for the bright sun setting at the far end of the bay. The sunset invites us to walk along the promenade. On the rocks between the sidewalk and the sea, fishermen with their fishing rods line up with groups of young friends and young couples. Past inline skaters, cafés without lights - a temporary energy-saving measure by the Egyptian government - and vendors selling chickpeas. We are not distracted by the honking of cab drivers and the shouts of horse-drawn carriages. We only make a stop at the local restaurant Kadoura, where we select fresh fish with the help of the Egyptian students. In the crowded, noisy and cheerful dining room, we clearly stand out to the Egyptians at the neighboring tables. The main topic of conversation in our international group: national and international food customs. After feasting, we stroll on to the end of the bay so as not to miss out on a portion of the Egyptian dessert Om Ali - a sweet bread casserole with milk.
Day 3 - One excursion, four highlights
Citadel
After the first two days of absorbing knowledge, listening and observing, on the last day we learn to put our newly acquired knowledge into practice: Our coach first takes us to the Qaytbay Citadel, followed by the Greek-Roman Museum, the Royal Jewelry Museum and the Roman Amphitheatre. In the citadel, we climb the unusually high steps - built at the time as a defensive measure against enemies to make it more difficult to climb up - and push our way through the crowds of tourists to the embrasures with a view of the sea and the city.
Crocodile Mummy
In addition to modern and varied statues, tombs and coins, we can even marvel at a crocodile mummy. On the way to the last sights of the day, the staff of the faculty look after us with carefully prepared lunch boxes.
Ceremonial farewell
After a “breather”, the AU events come to a festive conclusion in the Amideast festival hall. Following a round of feedback, the participants receive their certificates and have a final opportunity to exchange ideas. We round off the evening in an Egyptian café and then it's time to pack our bags. Whether for the first or second time, we all take away new experiences from this impressive trip. Special praise goes to the AU team, who gave us a warm welcome and made our stay extremely pleasant and well-organized.
